Tips

How2’s Guide to Open Live Writer

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I use OLW (Open Live Writer) a lot, as I maintain 4 different WordPress blog sites. I didn’t realise that one could download the OLW through Microsoft Store. Many of the problems people seem to have doesn’t happen in the non-Microsoft OLW. Just get it from source and install it.

Much easier and no snooping and Microsoft Control.

What is Open Live Writer

Open Live Writer is like Word for your blog. Open Live Writer is a powerful, lightweight blog editor that allows you to create blog posts, add photos and videos then publish to your website. You can also compose blogs posts offline and then publish on your return. Open We Writer works with many popular blog service providers such as WordPress, Blogger, TypePad, Moveable Type, DasBlog and many more.

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The History of Live Writer

There used two competing Live Writers. The original WLW (Windows Live Writer) from Microsoft (2006). In 2014 Microsoft released the WLW as open source which was the beginning of the open source “Open Live Writer” (by .Net). Already in its early days it proved to be more reliant and flexible than the original Live Writer.

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Using OLW

As you can see it looks like a normal Windows APP, and you can use the basic hotkeys as well as the “ribbon” icons. I just love the ability to easy cut and paste text into the text-area – with pictures, quotes, highlights …. and then release the creation straight from the desktop App to WP (WordPress) or any of the other blogging sites.

If you support more than one Blog the OLW switches easily from one blog site to another. No logging in and manoeuvring through the online Blogging Apps menus.

One last thing, not quite about the OLW but still somewhat related. In WP, when you’ve published your blog, WP doesn’t anymore automatically publish your blog on the common Facebook site so you’ll have to login to WP and retrieve a “short URL” from your blog, and self-publish it on your Facebook remembering to write some text first.
Ie “please click this link … to see …”

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How2’s Guide on Google Drive Search

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When searching in G-Drive like in the example the search is fast and it does give you all the occurrences of the search.

The searcher here was “190202 Coco” and as you can see the search found 3 files with that name. But just looking at the result does not show where the file actually is located and as you can just see to the left there are more than one computer being backed-up.

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This is the way to find where your file is located:
1. Click on the 1st file in the results
2. And notice the bottom bar is now displaying a location.

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In this case “Coco > 1902…” when clicking on “Coco” I was taken to the folder named “Coco”
and now I can see where the file is physically located (Win7-8 > Pictures >…)

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Note: Every time you have a new computer or you change the name of your computer “Google Backup & Sync” generates a new “Computer” for your current data. Very handy for retrieving older files and folders.

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The new Vodafone Broadband Contents Control

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I was, sooooo, getting fed-up with the restrictions imposed on me by my new Broadband Service Provider (Vodafone), I couldn’t even check out the “Nord VPN” site, nor follow many links from PC-information sites that I need to follow for information purposes to pass on to the U3A computer group MK.

Vodafone has finally made it easy to change their “security settings”.

  1. Sign-in to your Account Summary
  2. Hit the [Manage content controls] button to the right of Broadband
  3. This takes you to “Content Controls”
  4. Search for and click on “Content Control Profile” or
    click on the [Manage Content control profile] button.
  5. In your “Content Control Profile” you can choose which types of content you want to block. Choose between our Safe, Super safe or Ultra safe profiles, or create your own customised profile.
    1. Safe – Blocks Malicious sites
    2. Super safe – Blocks all content categories apart from Sex Education, Social Networks and Games
    3. Ultra-safe – Blocks all content categories
    4. Custom – Enables you to choose the content categories you want to block
    5. Turn off – Switch off all categories to give you access to all types of content
  6. Once you have made your choice just click on the [Save] button.

I can now access all the sites I want to, and at the end of my investigation, I can reset my safety level to what I think is needed.

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Uninstalling Antivirus and Malware Program’s

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A member of the U3A group had asked me to come and fix her Windows-7 PC. It was slow and sometimes it seemed to hang, plus sometimes she couldn’t get to her web-mail. So, I went, and saw that she Avast antivirus and malware program fighting with MSE for supremacy. Out came my memory stick (a necessary tool for carrying software that is possibly needed) and I started with loading CCleaner and while that was loading I recalled from somewhere deep in my memory that to uninstall Avast you needed to download a a uninstallation programme from Avast. So, we then downloaded the Avast uninstaller onto her desktop and started it, it started nicely with the usual prompts like: “are you sure …” of course I was otherwise I wouldn’t have gone through with the download! After having given permission to carry on I was then told that the uninstaller needed to be run from “safe mode” would I like it to switch to that? And it made the switch and even continued the uninstallation. When that was finished it prompted me to let it restart and restore to normal windows. Once back to the desktop I ran CCleaner to do a registry clean-up.

Then rebooted the PC and started CCleaner again. This time I wanted to see what was left behind in the Startup’s (Tools, Startup) and I also removed some unnecessary background runs (bear in mind that there are 3 different tabs here: ‘Windows’, ‘Scheduled Tasks’ & ‘Context Menu’.

Don’t delete any unwanted actions just “Disable” the ones you think you don’t need!

And a week later I received this recommendation:

Many, many thanks for all the assistance and help you gave me with my computer.
It was more than helpful.
Also my computer is less sluggish now.
Now that was nice, I don’t always get feedback and it made me feel good.

Microsoft Office Word 2016 – Custom Dictionaries

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I don’t know about you but I regularly add word to my “spelling checker” mainly to get rid of the red-wave-underlining that clutters the main mistakes. So, I add names of people and other words, but sometimes I add a wrong word and now need to remove it from the dictionary.

This is how to get to and modify your Custom Dictionary:

1. Open the proofing options:

· In most Office programs: Click File > Options > Proofing.

· In Outlook: Click File > Options > Mail > Spelling and Autocorrect > Proofing.

· In InfoPath: Click Home > Spelling > Check Spelling Options.

2. Make sure the Suggest from main dictionary only check box is cleared.

3. Click Custom Dictionaries.

All dictionaries (if you have more than one) are listed here, with the default dictionary at the top.

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One favourite OAP scam

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This is the scenario:

  1. You get a phone call late morning or early afternoon – that pretends to be from BT, SKY, or somewhere popular yearly subscription service; informing you that your contract or insurance is close to expire.
  2. They friendly ask if you would like to continue the contract and then offer you to upgrade there and then (MISTAKE)!
  3. They even say they have your card details from last year, and can you please confirm that the card-number starts (not ending) with 4159. And of course, this is incorrect so you automatically change the card number to the correct one (MISTAKE)!
  4. They might even be cheeky and snail-mail you an invoice asking you to send a cheque, as your payment didn’t go through. So, you do (MISTAKE)!
  5. A week later you might get another snail-mail informing you that if you don’t pay they will send the debt-collectors to you.

 

DON’T RESPOND! Either hang up or say “Sorry I can’t speak now; can I have your name and number please, so that I can call you back”. 90% of the time they will hang up.

Then phone the company in question and query the call/writ. It is most likely a forgery and a scam.

Then report the number and name to the fraud police.

Create an instant shutdown and/or restart icon on your desktop.

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You will need to use the windows program shutdown.exe (which is normally located in C:\Windows\System32\) and its parameters.

The table below is a shortened list of the parameters needed for instant shutdown and/or restart plus the help parameter to display all the parameters defined within your windows system.

Parameter Description
/s Shuts down the computer.
/r Restarts the computer after shutdown.
/t <sec> Sets the time-out period or delay to sec (seconds) before a restart or shutdown. This causes a warning to display on the local console. You can specify 0-600 seconds. If you do not use /t, the time-out period is 30 seconds by default.
/? Displays help at the command prompt, including a list of the major and minor reasons that are defined on your local computer.

This is what the instant shutdown command line would look like:
C:\Windows\System32\shutdown.exe /s /t 0

And the instant reboot command line would look like this:
C:\Windows\System32\shutdown.exe /r /t 0

As you can see the only difference is the use of “/s” or “/r” parameter

Now that we know what to use, how do we get it onto the desktop?
Easy! By creating a desktop shortcut icon containing the shutdown/restart command line as follows.

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  1. Right click anywhere on an empty space on your desktop to open a menu where you can find “New”.
  2. Hover over “New” and another menu appear, near the top of this is “Shortcut
  3. Select/Click on “Shortcut” to open the Shortcut creation wizard.
  4. Enter your command line and parameters
  5. Click Next
  6. Type a title/name for this shortcut – e.g. “Shutdown”
  7. And click Finish

I like to have a pretty self-explanatory icon’s because it’s easier to find than reading the titles – and here is how to do this:

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  1. Right click on the Shutdown icon, to open a menu
  2. Select and click on “Properties” to open the “Shutdown Properties” window
  3. It should automatically open in the “Shortcut” tab where you will find – near the bottom – the Change Icon… button.
  4. Click the Change Icon… and another window with lots of icons opens.
  5. Scroll through these until you find an icon you like.
  6. Click on it; followed by clicking the OK button to close that window.
  7. Now all you have to do is click the OK button in the “Properties”
    window and that’s it.

One last thing:

You might also want place Shutdown icon on your “Taskbar” and/or your “Start menu”
this action is called “Pin to …” – and here is how to do this:

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  1. Right click on the Shutdown icon (as before), to open a menu
  2. This time you are looking for “Pin to Taskbar” or “Pin to Start Menu” (near the top)
  3. Just click either and that’s it.

Note you don’t lose the original shortcut.

To unpin an icon from the taskbar/start menu, just right click on it and click “Unpin this program from Taskbar” or “Unpin from Start Menu” and they are gone; not uninstalled nor deleted because what you unpinned was a shortcut and NOT the actual item.

How to delete an EML extension file.

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I came across a strange happening last week. I have started using Thunderbird instead of Microsoft office outlook and I am really getting to grips with it.

I have had some minor problems with my settings but that was to be expected as I have over the years build myself a rather complicated email empire.

I was saving some emails as txt files but as usual, I forgot to tick the txt type of file and some of the emails were saved as EML file type files.

EML is a file extension for an e-mail message saved to a file in the MIME RFC 822 standard format by Microsoft Outlook Express as well as some other email programs. EML files can contain plain ASCII text for the headers and the main message body as well as hyperlinks and attachments.

I tried to open Library → Documents → “subfolder” and selected the file and pressed the Delete and nothing happened, not even a message that the file couldn’t be deleted.

I found that as long as I was using the parsing (virtual) name used to “My Documents” folder the delete wouldn’t work.

If on the other hand, by using the long way round to get to my subfolder (Local Disk (C:) → Users → you → My Documents → “subfolder”) I was able to delete the EML extension files.

System Restore Error Code 0x81000203

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I was having problems creating “Restore Points” in windows 7.

When I opened “System Protection” everything was greyed out; and all I got was an: “System Restore Error Code 0x81000203”.

Hunting high and low I finally came across this good advice from the following website: https://windowsforum.com/threads/actual-solution-for-system-restore-error-code-0x81000203.184794/

Both “Volume Shadow Copy” and “Microsoft Software Shadow Copy Provider” must be started and set to automatic. With both of these services active, the System Protection tab will work.

Their link to Microsoft didn’t work but here is a link that works: https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_7-performance/how-to-fix-error-code-0x81000203/0358b3df-a34f-e011-8dfc-68b599b31bf5 This describes how to fix this error for the “Volume Shadow”; but just apply the same for “Microsoft Software Shadow”.

My “Restore Points” are now working.
One more suggestion: Don’t forget to click the Configuration button to select the drive, and set the Maximum Disk Space to be used (to something more than zero, depending on how many generations of restore points you want, set it to at least a few GB).

Also just in case, create the first checkpoint yourself.
That’s it, and I am a happy bunny.

My Chromecast Saga

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For once the “Getting started” documentation was clear and correct.

I plugged the Chromecast #1 (upstairs) into my TV via HDMI; then I had to go online on my smartphone to do the “Setup”, this involved downloading and installing “Google Home” this was so beautifully easy. Before the Chromecast could be used it needed to update its software. I was prompted to link it to my router; and after that, it didn’t take long before it was up and running.

While I was at it I also installed “Google Home” on my live smartphone (Samsung S4) and on my tablet (Samsung Tab 4), great, the Chromecast can now be controlled by any of the 3 gadgets.

I then wanted to install another Chromecast #2 downstairs.
It hooked up ok, but the update just looped – it stayed on 0% for hours on end until I “x’ed” the upgrade. Thinking about it decided that maybe the “Google Home” apps needed to be re-installed, so I uninstalled “Google Home”, cleared the cache and data in “Play Store” – but alas – my Wi-Fi network is now refusing to let me install anything from “Google Play Store”. It was a faulty “Chromecast” and it has been returned and refunded.

It was not my applications/gadgets that were faulty; because when I went to my neighbour and use their Wi-Fi to download from “Play Store” it worked fine. It took about 3 weeks before my Wi-Fi was working correctly again.